Cornish and National businesses that make new products from old clothing and waste textiles face 'legislative challenges' that stop them from selling their products, a new report finds.

The report, published by the University of Exeter and produced for the Secretary of State for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, highlights how the clean growth of Cornwall's textiles and fashion industry can be achieved through recycling, repairing, and refurbishing items of clothing.

It looked at two Cornish Community Interest Companies (CICs) – Upcycle Kernow and Cultivate Cornwall that create new products from textile waste and old clothes, which the authors describe as examples of "sustainable innovation, directly reflecting what the levelling up agenda foresees for many UK regions – not just Cornwall".

Cultivate Cornwall and Upcycle Kernow will this year process an estimated total of 32 tonnes of fabrics, a figure set to double year-on-year.

But the report finds that safety and labelling legislation for textiles, some of which dates from the 1980s, mean firms cannot sell all the products they make, representing a 'barrier to clean growth' for those businesses that use waste to make new products.

George Eustice visits TeX Innovation partnered with Cultivate Cornwall and Upcycle Kernow

Regulations on safety, including General Product Safety Regulations 2005, Nightwear Regulations 1985, and the REACH Enforcement Regulations 2008 were found to impose punitive extra costs for businesses repurposing textiles and fabrics, as they would be forced to meet the additional costs of safety tests.

Dr. Constantine Manolchev, Senior Lecturer in Sustainable Futures at the University of Exeter Business School, said: "Our report shows how clean growth can be achieved in Cornwall's textiles and fashion industry.

"What Cultivate Cornwall and Upcycle Kernow are doing is bold and innovative. Their business innovation reflects the ambitious sustainability targets of the Levelling Up agenda but also goes beyond them – the two companies also engage with schools and train members of the local community. On the other hand regulations on safety and labelling mean they cannot sell all the products they make.

"Current regulation requires each sold item of clothing to be safety tested. However, there is no specific legal guidance on what that entails for a given product. As a result, the burden of responsibility falls on the business."

Harry Deacon, 26, TeX Innovation Project Manager and Director and Co-CEO of Cultivate Cornwall CIC was recently visited by George Eustice the MPfor Cambourne and Redruth to discuss the issue, Harry said: "Solutions to some of our biggest challenges, such as the climate emergency can often be found in our local community. We believe that by addressing legislative barriers, our local communities can be empowered to lead change that is positive for people and the planet.

George Eustice and Staff members from TeX Innovation, Upcycle Kenow and Cultivate Cornwall

"To exploit the potential of climate solutions, it is important local voices are heard when addressing these challenges, being the ones implementing these solutions they are best placed to highlight the challenges and solutions to barriers brought about by legislation and policy."

George Eustice has a go himself at working with material

With COP27 being a big topic at the moment Kirstie Edwards Deputy Mayor of Falmouth felt it was the perfect time to highlight some of the issues facing local communities and businesses to meet their 'Green objectives', Kirstie Edwards said: "When I was first approached regarding this challenge, I was shocked that there were so many obvious barriers for local businesses and community projects to overcome in their quest for sustainability in textiles. 

"We want local businesses to flourish, we want our communities to be resourceful. This simple change to labelling could really help; it seems like a no-brainer. You cant reuse clothing as clothing if you change it! We need to help our local community and businesses to communicate evidence like this with the people making those decisions."

Jayne Kirkham Cornwall councillor For Falmouth Penwerris and Labour group Leader, commented: '"We must give our local small businesses the tools they need to grow and to be successful. If we are serious about a green economy, we have to put in the legislation to enable it to happen."

Cultivating Clean Growth in Cornwall's Textile Industry' is available to read and download here.